Italy 2025: Guide to Rome

When we landed the invite to our friends’ wedding on an island off the coast of Naples, Italy, there was absolutely no way we were turning it down. Not just because these happen to be two of Nick and my closest friends (we actually introduced them!), but also because I, quite disgustingly, hadn’t been to Italy in, dare I say it, nine years. 

Let me rewind here for a second.

I grew up poor. Like single-mom poor. So when “travel club” opened up at my high school my senior year and gave us the opportunity to travel abroad for 14 days through England, France, and Italy, my other single-mom-poor best friend and I knew we had to make it happen.

So I hung up my jazz shoes, quit dance team, got a job at David's Bridal as a “junior stylist” carrying wedding dresses around twice my size for $9.55 an hour (which felt like serious money in 2014), and started saving. My mom helped pay for part of the trip with child support money, and my grandma, once again saving the day, bought my plane ticket.

The weekend after graduation, I was gone.

London, then Paris, then a beautiful trip from top to bottom through what would become my favorite country: Italy. We went from Florence to Rome to Assisi to the Amalfi Coast. And let me tell you, once you experience Capri in the summertime, you’re hooked.

But enough about my teenage years.

Once I got to college and had the opportunity to study abroad. Can you guess where I applied to? You betcha! Study and Intern in Rome summer 2016. 

I spent eight weeks in Roma eating pasta, drinking wine, and falling even deeper in love with my favorite country. I took trips to Tuscany, Florence, Milan, and of course back to the Amalfi Coast. I also visited Spain for the first time, where I experienced incredible sangria and, frankly, a lot of naked body parts on the beaches of Barcelona. I’m from the small-town Midwest, so this was a lot for 20-year-old McKenna to take in.

But more importantly, I met my second love that summer: Greece.

Santorini is unlike any place I have ever been. The people are so kind, and the value system is just so different than here in America. They serve the tourists to make money, but old-school tradition remains at the heart of everything. The culture and the island (and the people - wow!) are the most beautiful I’ve ever experienced in my life. 

As someone estranged from many parts of my own family, there is something about the sense of family, love, and history so deeply rooted in this culture that it actually makes me emotional.

BUT enough about young McKenna.

At 29, I knew this trip was my chance to show Nick another part of the world. Besides one trip to Mexico, time in Canada for hockey tournaments, and plenty of U.S. travel with me, my man simply hadn’t seen enough of the world.

So, no questions asked, we booked it.

Where to start?

When going anywhere in Europe, remember this: many countries are the size of U.S. states, and the train system is remarkable.

Do not just book the closest airport to your destination. Book the cheapest airport and take a train or a European carrier the rest of the way. This tip alone can save you hundreds, if not thousands.

Most of the time when going to Italy, Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport is your best bet. It is the largest airport and usually offers the best direct options from major U.S. hubs.

So I decided we would start in my alma mater: Rome.

We left Friday night, took the red-eye, landed at Heathrow Airport for a short layover, then hopped on a two-hour flight into Roma.

Where to stay in Rome

When booking a hotel in Rome, stay in the city center.

Position yourself somewhere between Vatican City, the Tiber River, Colosseum, and Villa Borghese.

Will it cost more? Yes. Will you walk almost everywhere? Also yes. Will that save you money and time later? Absolutely.

We stayed at Hotel Le Clarisse al Pantheon.

Why? Simple: it was affordable and dead center in the city right next to the Pantheon.

I assumed we wouldn’t spend much time in the room, so hotel quality mattered less to me.

I was dead wrong.

Our room was spacious and beautiful, with an old Roman, almost bed and breakfast-like feel. The bathroom was large, the breakfast terrace was lovely, and I genuinely have zero complaints.

I would absolutely stay there again.

Breakfast included plenty of gluten-free options, fresh bread and pastries, hard-boiled eggs, and the kind of traditional European meats and cheeses that just make breakfast feel so fancy overseas. Two incredibly kind Italian women served us every morning. They spoke very little English, but luckily my Italian is pretty darn good. 

Every day started with an order of due Americanos. It was pure bliss. 

Now, let’s discuss activities.

What is worth it in Rome (and what isn’t) 

Please only buy tickets from legitimate websites tied directly to the actual monuments. There are a lot of scams out there, along with overpriced third-party sellers that can cancel on you last minute and leave you without a refund.

1. The Vatican + St. Peter’s Basilica

Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica are number one on my list, no question.

If you give any sort of crap about history at all, do not miss these.

And do not be a schmuck, do a guided tour. You will not regret it.

I like to know what I am looking at and why, and these guides are geniuses. They know an unbelievable amount about the history of the Vatican and the Catholic Church, and they do not shy away from the truth either. You get the full story, not the polished version.

The Vatican is still the second coolest place I have ever been in my life (stay tuned to find out the first!). You will never see a palace, museum, or church so breathtaking in your life. The ceilings alone are enough to make you stop dead in your tracks.

St. Peter's Basilica is free and open to the public since it is an active church. Guided Vatican tours start around 40 euro, while non-guided entry options typically start around 20 euro. 

2. Trevi Fountain

The Trevi Fountain

Now, if you grew up on The Lizzie McGuire Movie like me, you are stopping here no matter what I say.

But for those of you who somehow shunned Hilary Duff in her prime, let me explain something: throwing a euro into the fountain heals you.

Do not ask me why. Just do it.

And if you are lucky enough to catch it at night during a light show, absolutely go then. There is something magical and almost ethereal about the fountain after dark.

Also, it is surrounded by gelato, which frankly should be reason enough on its own.

3. Villa Borghese

Galleria Borghese

Some of you do not give a crap about art, and for that we have nothing in common.

But even if art is not your thing, go visit the park and gardens. It feels like something out of a movie.

Think the castle grounds from The Princess Diaries 2.

Now for those of you who do like art, this is not the Louvre Museum or Metropolitan Museum of Art, but it is still spectacular.

And what makes it special is that unlike many museums where the walls simply hold famous art, here the entire gallery itself is art. Floor to ceiling, every room feels stunning.

And yes, if you are a super nerd like me, get the guided tour because learning is awesome and I stand by that. And again, I like to be told what the heck I’m looking at.

Tickets for Galleria Borghese start at 18 euros total once you add the required reservation fee, and yes, you absolutely should book ahead because they limit entry and it sells out fast. Guided tours usually start around 40 euros.

4. The Pantheon

The Pantheon

We have already established I am a huge nerd.

Being in the place where the famous artist Raphael is buried means a lot to someone who willingly took art history.

But even beyond that, this building is almost 2,000 years old, and somehow still standing there looking exactly like it has seen centuries of human mess.

There is something incredibly old and spooky about it (high praise from someone like me).

Just go see it for yourself.

Entry to the Pantheon is surprisingly affordable at 5 euros, and honestly, for a building that is nearly 2,000 years old, that feels like a steal. If you want a guided tour, prices usually start around 25 euros, but even going in on your own is absolutely worth it. 

5. Spanish Steps

Spanish Steps

You are no longer allowed to sit on them, which is honestly wack. Truly wack.

You will get fined, so do not test it.

But if you want to see the shopping mecca of the world, this is your place.

I am talking Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Valentino, all lined up in one spectacular square.

The steps themselves? Honestly, they are kind of just steps.

But if Hermès makes your heart skip a beat like it does mine, you will make your way here regardless.

6. The Colosseum

Colosseum

This may be controversial, but this is the most overhyped thing in Rome. Maybe even Italy. (Just kidding! Wait till you hear my take on Pompeii.)

Cool to look at? Of course.

Cool to go inside? Eh.

I have been twice, and twice is one time too many.

If you are going because you think you are about to stand where gladiators fought to the death, think again. The Colosseum was reconstructed during the 6th century AD and was used as housing during much of the medieval ages. The gladiator floor is now a bunch of little houses where people once lived. It sounds cooler than it looks, trust me. 

Everyone deserves to see it once, absolutely.

Instead, get a drink at a local spot around the Colosseum and admire its beauty from the outside. I’d recommend the Aperol spritzes at Caffè Martini e Rossi. 

The Colosseum starts at 18 euros for standard entry, which also gets you into the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. If you want the arena floor or underground access, tickets jump to about 26 euros. 

7. Palatine Hill + Roman Forum

Palatine Hill + Roman Forum

I do not even know how to explain how lackluster this feels compared to everything else in Rome.

I don’t even know how to explain how lackluster this is.

I’ve done it once, and once was enough.

Honestly, you can see plenty from the outside. You don’t need a ticket just to wander through half-standing old forums.

Unless ancient ruins are deeply your thing, then gopher it!

I would not spend a ton of time here. It is simply not as cool as the rest of Rome.

Palatine Hill is not sold separately but is instead included in your Colosseum ticket.

Now, let’s move on to the important stuff: food and drinks.

Since I have Celiac disease, my reviews and recommendations will be geared toward gluten-free options, so be aware of that.

Pro tip: download the Find Me Gluten Free app for gluten-free reviews and restaurant rankings all over the world. It is a lifesaver when you are traveling. 

1. VinAllegro

VinAllegro is in my old hood, Trastevere, which is a neighborhood everyone should check out. It is an easy trip from the city center.

This is the most romantic wine bar in the world. I would know.

Heck, I lived in Italy, spent a week in Napa Valley, and drank my way through Spain and Greece, so just trust me, okay?

Besides the fact that it feels like a mix between a bar from the medieval ages and a wine cellar lined floor to ceiling with bottles, they also have an entire wine book featuring bottles from all over the world.

I am talking Argentinian wine, African wine, and of course Italian wine.

They have lists upon lists from nearly every region in the world. It is one of the coolest places I have ever been.

Pick a bottle from anywhere.

Heck, throw a dart at a map and choose a wine from that region. You will not be disappointed.

2. Mama Eat Roma

Mama Eat is literal gluten-free heaven.

They have everything Italian plus bar food, and it can all be made gluten free.

With several locations across Italy, this is a must-stop if you are GF.

From bruschetta to pasta to pizza to hamburgers and seafood, I’m telling you, they have it all.

I recommend getting a pasta (cacio e pepe for me), a pizza (honestly, any flavor will do), and the pistachio tiramisu.

But I am a pistachio diehard. Is pistachio the new pumpkin spice for basic girls like me? Possibly.

I will say, the huge crocchè are cool, but I personally did not love the flavor profile of the salsiccia e friarielli. The broccoli rabe just did not pair nicely for me.

I would try the plain one next time.

P.S. Nick and I shared everything, and as a non-gluten-free person, he genuinely enjoyed the food and loved the pasta the most. 

3. New Food Gluten Free

New Food Gluten Free is hands down the best gluten-free pastry shop I have ever been to in my life.

Also, I know gluten-free food is truly good when Nick likes it, especially pastries.

We stuck to their pastries, but let me tell you, that is all you need.

The chocolate croissants are life-changing for a celiac girl like me.

We also got some sort of custard and chocolate filled pastries. It was basically custard and chocolate pudding oozing out of flaky pastries.

Do not ask me what they were called, but I love pudding, so these were everything to me.

If you are Italian, please skip over this line: we did not like the maritozzi.

Not because it was gluten free, but because to us it tasted like bread filled with that same cream they put in cream puffs.

Not for us. Skip.

My only regret here is not getting more!

4. The Venchi Store

Gelato every single day in Italy is a must.

Is Venchi commercialized? Yes. Is it also delicious? Yes. Do I enjoy the chocolatier experience, complete with employees dressed in chocolatier outfits? Also yes.

If you are lactose intolerant like me, yes, I know, lactose intolerant and gluten free, I am a lot, but I dabble in lactose often, so do not worry about me.

There is a vegan dark chocolate gelato that I got at least five times.

Also, thank you very much for putting a piece of chocolate in my gelato. Yum! An extra little treat.

Please try local gelato shops too, but make time for Venchi. And if you cannot, do not worry, because it is also in the airports. I got it on our way from Italy to Greece for breakfast at 9:00 a.m. (Shoutout to the Naples airport!)

Also, gelato is way cheaper than ice cream, because Italians know what is important in life. It is about half the price of the overpriced stuff you get in America.

5. Baguetteria Del Fico

Baguetteria del Fico 

Just steps from Piazza Navona, this is one spot you absolutely do not want to miss.

I ordered the most delectable cheese board of my life, loaded with traditional Italian meats and cheeses, homemade jams, and fresh bread (not gluten free, so I skipped the bread and still had zero regrets). And somehow, this “great plate of mixed cheese and meat” was only 13 euro, how are these people making money?

Nick ordered a sandwich he still talks about to this day, and I believe it was the capocollo (only 7 euro).

And of course, we washed it all down with Aperol Spritzes.

6. Volgia di Pizza

I went to Voglia di Pizza often in college.

The pizza here is Naples-style, and it is divine. Think thin, soft yet crispy crust with fresh ingredients. Classic Italiano.

They have both gluten-free and glutinous options, and all of it is delicious.

This place is also super reasonably priced.

I have not tried the pasta, but believe me, I will be back.

7. Pasta e Vino

Pasta e Vino has a few locations in Rome and Milan. 

This is simple Italian, no-frills pasta done right. And, of course, they have gluten free.

I ordered the carbonara, which was so rich and creamy it almost tasted like elevated mac and cheese, with thick pieces of bacon that are much heartier than what we think of as American bacon. Traditional carbonara uses guanciale, which comes from the pig’s cheek or jaw rather than pork belly like in America, so it tastes richer, fattier, and less smoky. 

They also serve pinsa here, which is somewhat similar to an American flatbread. It is airier and crispier than Neapolitan pizza, comes in an oval shape, and has a lighter bite thanks to the dough.

And of course, the wine selection is great!

8. Scholars Lounge

If you find an Irish pub as comforting as I do, visit Scholars Lounge Irish Pub.

An Irish pub in Rome… McKenna, why would I go there? 

Because, as I just said, it feels like home. Americans are drinking beers, sports are on the TVs, and somehow it feels like I am back in a dive bar in Iron Mountain, Michigan.

But seriously, I met some really cool people here on my last visit: an American digital nomad, an Austrian transplant, and others whose lives looked nothing like mine. It felt like its own little melting pot inside Rome.

Honorable mention to The Drunken Ship. I have not been there since college, but I had many fun and wild nights there. I will absolutely go back next time I am in Rome.

Nick and I did not have time this trip, but I hope to bring him there someday and watch the bartenders pour shots directly into his mouth like they did for a very young 20-year-old me. Although unlike me, he will probably have to pay for them.

Getting Out of Rome 

Now, let’s talk about leaving Rome. But why, McKenna? Because all good things must come to an end.

Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport has a fixed taxi fare of 55 euro from central Rome. Check Uber too, because sometimes it is cheaper, sometimes it is not. You can also take one of the above-ground trains to the airport, but if you pack like me, that feels like the less sexy option.

If you need to get to another part of Italy, take the train.

Italo is my personal favorite, but Trenitalia is great too. We got to Naples in business class for 28 euro a person, and the trip took just one hour and ten minutes on Italo.

Do not sleep on trains in Europe. It will save you so much time and money.

Could we have flown from Rome to Naples for the next leg of our trip? Sure. For $150 to $300, plus arriving at the airport two hours early for a one-hour flight? No thanks.

We got to the train station about twenty minutes before departure and arrived in Naples right on time to catch our ferry to Capri.

If the transit system feels intimidating, you are in luck. Let me introduce you to my favorite Italian travel tool: Rome2Rio.

Plug in where you are and where you want to go, and it will show you every option: cars, buses, trains, ferries, planes, the companies that run them, and how long each route takes. Then it links you directly to booking sites. And it is not just for Italy, although I swear it works best there. It can usually tell you how to get anywhere from point A to point B. 

I use it every single time I go to Italy. You are welcome.

So that is it for Rome for now, folks. I hope you found something useful here. And please check out my next blog from this 20-day European adventure, where I do a deep dive into my favorite island in the world (so far): Capri.